No Divided Opinions Over Split

It was a beautiful end to the long drive from Plitvice Lakes when we reached our hotel for two nights in Split, Croatia. Tour leader Sanel gave us a quick orientation walking tour and then we were given free time for dinner on our own. The orange sherbet sunset, seen from the wide pedestrian waterfront was the perfect dessert. 

There is a large cat population in Split. As a waterfront city, the residents take care of the cats, so that the cats take care of the rats (we never saw evidence of rats).

This kitty yearned for a treat and Bob cordially complied.

 A walking tour of despotic Roman Emperor Diocletian's palace takes us through an impressive mausoleum, a monumental colonnaded courtyard, Jupiter's Temple, and the Cathedral of St. Domnius. The structure takes up about half of Split's old town area.

Sanel introduces us to local guide, Maja Benzon.

Maya explains the architectural features of the palace cellars.

The Temple of Jupiter, c.305, contains a 12th century statue of St. John the Baptist.

The baptismal font is engraved with a Croatian king and his subject.

The courtyard of the palace now has a couple of resident businesses, including a bar which plays music-to-dance-by at night.  

Nothing like a pair of money-grubbing Roman soldiers to enliven the place. Declared a UNESCO site in 1979, Diocletian's retirement home was built around 1,500 ago.

Although the bell tower was added in the 12th century, the small structure itself, built in AD 305 as the Mausoleum of Diocletian.

Domed ceiling of the cathedral.

Consecrated at the turn of the seventh century, the cathedral is considered the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world that remains in use in its original structure.

 The Vestibule, also known as The Rotonda or The Atrium, is the first section of the imperial corridor in Diocletian's Palace that led from the Peristyle, which was once the formal entrance to the imperial apartments. We enjoyed a 4-part harmony Croatian folk song.

The way that we chose to spend our free time in Split, might not have been the best choice. We remain divided on that.

Since Rick Steves suggested it, we decided to visit the former home of Ivan Meštrović. He was a Croatian-born American sculptor known for his boldly cut figurative monuments and reliefs. He died in 1962 in South Bend, Indiana.

Cyclops was one of several statutes on the grounds of the former home of Ivan Meštrović. He built the home with the intent of donating the property as a museum/gallery for his work. 

Not far from the gallery lies Kaštelet-Crikvine, a restored chapel that houses a set of Christian wooden wall panels carved by Ivan Meštrović.

It was a long, hot walk to Ivan Meštrović's gallery and chapel, but the views were spectacular. We managed to catch a bus back to old town.

Wandering around the charming old town of Split was a good use of time for the rest of the day.

This was taken in the morning on an old town walking street prior to our palace tour. Ahead lies the waterfront. 

Gregory of Nin was a Croatian bishop is known for opposing the Pope and the Catholic Church in the 10th century. The 28-foot tall statue in Split's old town was created in 1828 by Ivan Meštrović.

Piazza Heritage Hotel, a focal point of the old town plaza, was a former palace built in 1906 in the Viennese Art Noveau style.

Church and Monastery of St. Francis near the waterfront and old town of Split.

Built in the 19th century, Republic Square is a large, rectangular square with a strong Venetian influence, resembling St. Mark's Square in Venice. 

National Theatre of Split built in 1893, with statue of Gajo Bulat, who championed the building of the theatre.

Gajo Bulat, (and Bob) the legendary mayor of Split and hero of the 19th century battles for Croatian Dalmatia.

Eye-Popping Plitvice Lakes National Park

The positive juju and pleas to the weather gods went unheard for our visit to Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia. While I don't have an actual bucket list, the photos I've seen of this place have always sung their siren song to me, especially the ones taken in the best of light with blue sky. Oy vey! Good thing we brought raincoats and umbrellas!

Tour Manager Sanel planned for us to have the optimal visit of the park where no one but our group was in that part of the park. We're to eat breakfast at 7 a.m. and load luggage on the bus by 7:45. At 8 a.m., our very cooperative flock (with much oversight and urging by a stressed Sanel) walked to meet the electric shuttle tram that would drive us to the very end of the park, where no one else begins their visit. This photo was taken at the start of our walk.

Much of the mucky park pathway is covered by boardwalks. Sometimes there was a rail to hold onto. It was a challenge to identify when there was a step or level change on the glossy, wet wood.

The views only got more spectacular.

Ah, the sound of water: rain and waterfalls.

Sometimes, gray skies enhance natural colors and the foliage appears brilliantly glossy.

At a certain point, we took an electric ferry across Kojak Lake to a rest area where we could buy hot drinks and snacks before heading out on the next hike.

Sanel's plan gave us the pleasure of walking quietly alone in the woodland beauty. The crowds of tourists were beginning to appear. Most of the busloads from cruises and other tours start at the first entry, whereas we started at the end.

The pathways became so thick with people that it was impossible to stop and take any photos. It would be easy to get pushed into the water by an impatient or careless tourist. 

There were photos to take from above, but it was hard for a height-challenged photographer to get over the greenery.

Because Bob and I were at the back of the pack (taking too many photos!) with people-sweeper Tim, we didn't have time to walk to the tall waterfall at the end. The photo from this viewpoint was probably better and we didn't deal with huge crowds.

Sanel was at the viewpoint to make sure he had all of his chickens rounded up (one was temporarily misplaced along the way). The rain had lightened for a little bit on the last part of the park. But as we walked toward the bus, it poured with gusto. We were lucky to be tucked in the warm, dry bus when those rains hit. Many settled in for a nap during the long drive to Split. The morning in Plitvice Lakes was perfect!

Watch for the next post, which will cover this afternoon and the next day in Split, Croatia!

Belle Époque with a Riviera Vibe

Hello to Opatija and goodbye to Motovun. After 1.5 hours we reach seaside Opatija, Croatia, which lies along the Kvarner Gulf. We are given free time to wander amidst manicured parks and Belle Époque villas. The waterfront is really gorgeous and my heart yearned to jump in the crystal water. How does it manage to stay that way? 

There are several roped off swimming areas beyond this tucked-away boat harbor.

The famous "maiden with a seagull" statute and swimming areas.

One of many manicured parks.

This Belle Époque villa houses businesses on the ground floor and offices or apartments above it.

Angiolina Park was large and beautiful with a mix of formal and informal garden areas...and cats!

Catman never fails to treat the kitties.

The park kitties are grateful and delightful.

Please sir, may I have some more?

We think this was a road rally. Definitely spendy roadsters!

I'm a little sad that I didn't take any photos out of the bus window on the long drive to Plitvice Lakes Natural Park. We drove through what was considered "the bread basket" of Croatia prior to the Croatian War of Independence from 1991-1995 from the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, the Serb-controlled Yugoslav People's Army, and local Serb forces. We saw many abandoned and bullet-riddled homes. Some homeowners have begun to return and slowly rebuild their homes and livestock herds. Time and money are not always readily available.

Castle Dreams, Roman Ruins and Seaside Splendor

The morning view from the castle-topped hill village of Motovun is of blue sky overhead and clouds hanging low in the valley over the grapevines. It's a short walk down the cobblestone street from our Kastel Hotel to meet our bus. It is a miracle how driver Sayad can turn it around in such a tight space. 

We stopped at the bottom for a group photo with an amazing background view of Motovun surrounded by grapevines and a bit of those low clouds.

Kastel Hotel

Shop next to the hotel. The cobblestones were rugged.

Arched doorway over the beginning of the downhill walk.

A charming doorway.

Another arch in the ramparts wall over the downhill walk.

Exploring the Istrian Peninsula of Croatia took us to the city of Pula where we had an historical tour of some of the many Roman ruins by local guide, Mariam.

The Pula Arena is one of the six largest and best preserved in the world (after the Rome Colosseum). It was built around AD 1st century. 

The amphitheatre is actively in use. It was being set up for a wrestling match.

Mariam showed us a unique bronze panorama map of Pula that was also a fountain.

The Piazza Foro, established by the Romans for public debate, has the well-preserved Temple Augustus (left) built around the AD 1st century. The Communal Palace (right) has been used for city government offices since the 9th century.

The Arch of Sergii honors three battle-victorious members of the Sergii family. It was constructed approximately 29-27 BC.

After a couple of hours for exploring Pula, the bus headed to Rovinj, which proved to be a cute little seaside town for wandering about. The day was beautiful and hot!

We walked around half of the perimeter of the old town, which used to be an island. There were lovely views of the gorgeous water and our hearts yearned to be in it. 

There wasn't enough time for a dip, so we sat in the shade and drank a cool spritz instead.

One can't pass by such a lovely market display without taking a photo!

The way back to Hotel Kastel is preceded by a generous dinner of local Istrian specialties at the tucked-away taverna, Restaurant Brtonigla.

The meal begins with a scallop cooked over a real fire burning inside the taverna, which contributed to the heat inside! There is mushroom or beef goulash pasta, salad, veal medallions with potatoes and dzuvec rice, and strudel for dessert. We're stuffed for sure!